Tagged: vintage

Winter Essentials

I wrote this as a guest post for a friend and (shock horror) I didn’t melt afterwards, even though there’s no controversy or anything. So I thought I’d post it here…

Channelling my inner Dallas Green...
Channelling my inner Dallas Green…

Woolly hat
Sure, kids at hardcore gigs (the same guys who wear Eastpak backpacks and have plugs in their ears the size of Oreos) may wear them all year round but the woolly hat comes into its own in the Winter. Pro tip: I use a pair of fake glasses to keep it at the perfect height and stop it slipping down over my eyes. The downside is that it makes me look like…a douchebag wearing fake glasses.

Grey hoodie
Yes, probably down to the fact that I spent most of my teenage years aspiring to be like One Tree Hill’s Lucas Scott, but I still think a washed out, supersoft grey hoodie takes some beating.

Shirt jacket
Jackets bore me. There, I said it. I’m so not down with dropping £100+ on a huge jacket that will take up a load of space in my already crowded wardrobe…though I will make an exception when I find the parka. I picked up this Ralph Lauren workshirt, pictured above, for £36 at TK Maxx (despite the RRP of £600…). No, seriously. It’s warm, soft and it didn’t require a trip to Oxfam to clear closet space for it. Sorry, Oxfam.

Beard
Because facial hair is for life, not just for Movember.

Menswear winter essentials

Cable knit jumper
As well as being a completely classic look, I can also be sure that this won’t start my grandparents off again at Christmas dinner about how nobody dressed like that in their day. In retrospect, wearing a Black Dahlia Murder vest on Christmas Day was a poor decision. Anyway, I got mine at New Look. Ok, so it doesn’t have a little polo player on it, but it was only twenty quid. TWENTY QUID.

Doc Martens
Although they’re best known for big clompy boots, Dr Martens also make some beautiful (and hard wearing) shoes that can take anything from tramping city pavements to walking the dog in a rural snowstorm. Mine even came with a tin of wax to re-waterproof them. It’s only a matter of time before I have too much to drink and use said wax on my moustache.

Scarf
Ahh, my favourite scarf. Just thinking about it makes my neck warm. Not as warm as actually wearing it does, mind. I’m probably the pickiest person in the world when it comes to scarves; I don’t know whether it’s just me, but I find about 90% of scarves really scratchy. I got mine at Beyond Retro for the princely sum of five pounds. No wonder a friend posted this on my Facebook wall the other day, along with the comment ‘THIS IS YOU’ -

Out with the old, in with the shoe.

For as long as I can remember, the phrase ‘deck shoe’ has been synonymous with Timberland. In fact, one of my favourite pair of shoes is a pair of Timberlands, pictured above, that my dad gave me about a year ago. Given that he wore them for close to a decade (yes, really) before handing them down to me, it’s nothing short of a miracle that they still exist. I’ve had shoes that have packed up in less than a quarter of that length of time. Literally, the very molecules that composed them have just ceased to exist and I’ve had to replace them.

As such, I was hesitant when Chatham Marine offered to send me some of their deck shoes – ‘It’s ok,’ I whispered to my Timbies. ‘I’d never try to replace you guys like that.’ Time passed and I came to my senses, realising that I’m NOT in fact in a monogamous relationship with my shoes, and I let Chatham hook me up. My first impressions were good – they felt comfortable, yet sturdy. Even the laces seemed tough. Always useful when you trip over your own feet as often as I do.

Against the advice of the manufacturers, I’ve managed to get the shoes completely soaked on two separate occasions (I was testing how they’d cope if I fell overboard…obviously) and, although they’ve required a little re-wearing in afterwards, they’re still going very strong. All Chatham’s stuff comes with a two year guarantee, but there’s no signs I’ll need to make use of that as of yet. Whether they’ll last nine more years after that? Well, I’ll have to wait and see.

In case you missed that hyperlink above, you can check out everything Chatham Marine has on offer at http://www.chatham-marine.co.uk/.

Secret Underground Stations & A Vintage Tie

Just in case a (no longer very…) secret underground station in New York that’s half Harry Potter, half Bioshock isn’t cool enough for you, the bits of it that are really illegal to get to are being turned into a pop up graffiti museum. Insanely cool. More pics and info on Travelettes.

This tie. Vintage Gant. £9 on eBay. I shouldn’t have to say anything else, but I will anyway. My two predictions for the next trends to (re)surface are rave, but in a completely different way to nu-rave…writing a post on it very soon, and kitschy Americana. It’s becoming increasingly difficult to tell whether a lot of the balding, Western shirt clad men with funny moustaches wandering around Shoreditch are post-ironic hipsters or actual rednecks. Keep your jokes to yourself; one of these groups is so trigger happy that they can’t even make breakfast without a gun.

Why vintage is the new ‘new’.

Doc Martens, courtesy of a too.

I recently tweeted that the most stylish kids of our generation are dressing like their parents used to. Although I faced a little bit of backlash (but when have I ever said anything that hasn’t resulted in a bit of backlash…?), a lot of people actually agreed with me. What I wasn’t able to compress into a couple of tweets is my internal debate about whether or not vintage shopping is getting easier.

My argument hinged around the fact that a ton of brands my parents used to like are now hugely popular with bloggers and other fashion conscious young people – my dad wore Doc Martens as a kid (c.f. my beautiful new ones at the top of this post), and has worn Gant and Ralph Lauren (both two of my ‘go to’ brands) shirts for years. My mum spent most of the ’90s in Liberty print and maxi-dresses, both now making a huge comeback. So, in theory, all kids have to do to look great these days is raid their parents’ wardrobes…right?

Not quite. Consider the difference between the following two statements – ‘You look so ’80s!’ and ‘Your clothes look like they’re thirty years old.’ It’s pretty obvious which one sounds more favourable.  When I wear one of my dad’s favourite shirts I invariably look like…well, someone wearing their dad’s old shirt. However, on finding similar shirts in charity shops and the like, it quickly becomes apparent that items have often been donated because the wearer found it at the back of their wardrobe and realised they never wear it.

It used to be that shopping for vintage clothes was incredibly difficult, because finding clothes in good condition was tough to do. Brands like Levi’s, Gant and Abercrombie have totally changed this. By selling clothes that have already been weathered to look vintage, including everything from pre-ripped locker loops (pictured below) to sand washed and torn denim, secondhand shopping has the chance to truly hit the bigs again.

Ripped locker loops traditionally indicated that the wearer had a significant other.

I had a quick word with the gents from a too, a specialist menswear retailer in Birmingham, about how menswear has changed in the last 15 years. This is what they told me – “Don’t get too comfortable! It is amazing just how much men’s fashion and the requirements of customers has changed over the years, something that we have had to constantly be aware of.” They also intimated that most customers are now “looking for something that is a little bit special…they look for great details, fit and materials which set clothes a level up from the regular high-street offerings.”

The guys also alluded to a point I made in a previous blog, namely that popular culture (everything from television shows to the internet) now has a huge impact of people, whether they’re aware of it or not. “The rise of style-based blogs has also meant that people come in looking for a certain look, rather than wanting to get kitted with a particular brand, which is reflected in the brands that we now stock.”

I was recently checking out some advertising from the 1950s and came across this old advert for Gant -

The advert struck me because it reminded me so much of the Mad Men look, which demonstrated another reason that vintage is so massive right now – as well as people wanting their clothes to have character and ‘stories’ to them (whether those stories truly belong to the garment’s owner or not is another story…), current trends are very much based around picking and choosing stylistic devices from the last hundred years and mixing them together in a very postmodern way. And it goes without saying that a shirt made in the ’50s will always look more legit than a shirt that’s been made to look like it was made in the ’50s.

So why are some brands already repro’ing stuff that looks just like what my parents used to wear? Well, there are two reasons. Firstly, they’re putting an incredibly subtle (one far too subtle to explain here…) spin on things that make them similar enough to invoke nostalgia but different enough to make it look fresh and not like one of Pops’ beaten up old shirts. Secondly, there are still men (and women, too) who are resilient to the idea of putting together a collection of vintage pieces because…well, to be frank, vintage shopping can take a lot of work. It’s probably no coincidence that two of a too’s best selling collections are Gitman Vintage and Gant Rugger.

But if you have a little time, there’s not much you’ll find in stores that you won’t find in a vintage store.

A/W ’12 Trend Forecast: The ’90s are back.

Fashion has a lot in common with a bunch of monkeys getting sprayed with cold water. Wait, come back, let me finish! Start with a cage containing five monkeys. In the cage, hang a banana on a string and put stairs under it. When one of the monkeys (inevitably) goes towards the banana, spray all of the monkeys with cold water. Repeat this process for several days. Eventually, any monkey that goes after the banana will be attacked by the others, even if the water is turned off. Now, replace one of the original monkeys with a new one. It’ll go straight for the banana, and the other monkeys will attack it to stop it. Replace another of the original monkeys with a new one, and the others (including the first new monkey) will attack it too. Keep replacing monkeys and eventually all the monkeys will stay away from the stairs, even though none of them was ever sprayed with cold water. Psychology lesson over.

So why am I talking about monkeys? Well, you can see above that the new set of monkeys all act in a certain way without knowing why. The same is true of street style – despite being (sometimes) completely unaware that a look has previously existed, people will adopt it as their own. Occasionally, enough of these occurrences will take place to signal a full scale revival. And guess what? It’s happening right now; we’re re-entering the ’90s.

Oh, hipsters, you so crazy.

People have this idea that the ’90s sucked and…for the most part, they’re right. But while pimply teenagers in Huddersfield were rushing home from playing POGs in Wimpy’s to record New Kids on the Block (holding a tape recorder up to the radio, shushing their dad whenever he came in the room, natch), American directors were creating some of the most enduring teen films of all time - Never Been Kissed10 Things I Hate About You,  She’s All That etc etc. By far the greatest of these movies was (d’uh!) Clueless, a movie I’ve watched like nine (hundred) times. As I rewatched last night, I began to notice that the fashion in Clueless matches up with a lot of trends that will be hitting it big in A/W 2012. Like, totally.

If Cher Horowitz was around today, she could totally be the quintessential fashion blogger. Check her out in the picture above – just add a little pink dip dye to those blond locks, and you’ve got a look that could get about 30,000 notes on Tumblr (maybe tag it ‘hipster’ ‘goth’ ‘hot’ ‘girl’ ‘urban outfitters’ ‘topshop’ ‘style’ just to get the ball rolling).

clueless cher fashion

But look! Cher could totally do the ‘proper’ fashion blog thing too – that outfit is so ready for the FROW. No wonder Mashley Olsen (I can’t tell the difference so I just refer to them as one person) is giving her a look like ‘you go, girl’. Or ‘bitch stole my outfit before I was even born’, I can’t tell. When Cher writes up events she can even find some way to work stuff in about how Ren and Stimpy are ‘way existential’, which is more profound than some of the stuff today’s fashion bloggers write…I recently saw this one dude ramble on about monkeys for a whole paragraph, can you believe that?

Hey, remember earlier this year when Tatty Devine freaked out because Claire’s Accessories ‘stole’ a bunch of their designs? Check out the above picture and you’ll see that Amber had pretty much the same necklace in 1995. Hmm.

Even the crazy skateboard fashion on the fringes of Clueless is becoming relevant again. Sure, most guys are wearing their baseball caps facing forward right now, but close enough, right? With tribal patterns and Mary Katrantzou-esque prints being so popular in S/S ’12, I have no doubt that colours will only get brighter and more garish as the year goes on.

Want to check whether or not you think I’m right? The video above (watch out, the volume is kinda loud…) shows every outfit Cher wears in the movie in 60 seconds – can you see yourself wearing anything similar in the months to come? If you say no, look in the mirror in seven months and try telling me the same answer…

p.s. Etsy totally agree with me – Cluess Fashion.